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 Iraq Through Iraqi Kurdistan

 Source : Hawaii.Reporter
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Iraq Through Iraqi Kurdistan  30.9.2007
By Stafford Clarry




































September 30, 2007

This speech -- Iraq Through Iraqi Kurdistan -- was presented by Stafford Clarry, a Hilo resident and Humanitarian Affairs Advisor, on Sept. 6, 2007, at the University of Hawaii-Hilo. Mr. Clarry, who served in Iraqi Kurdistan since 1991, is the American with the longest continuous service in Iraq.

Let me begin to try to help you understand more about what is happening in Iraq by understanding what is happening, and not happening, in one part of Iraq, the Kurdistan Region of Iraq, often referred to as Iraqi Kurdistan or just plain Kurdistan. This is not about understanding everything there is to understand of course, but to understand a bit more about Iraq, certainly more about the Kurdistan Region.

I hope to help you know and understand that there is a lot more to know and understand. Every month in Iraq the whole population of Hilo -- some 50,000 persons, or 10,000 families -- are being forced by the threat of violence, fear, to migrate from their homes. Every three months the whole population of the Big Island migrates. Today, in Iraq, more than three times the population of our fair State of Hawaii is no longer able to go home -- more than 4 million people.

Whatever we hear or read or see on TV about the progress or success being made regarding security in Iraq, or the lack thereof, there is one fundamental question and two directly related questions to ask of our government and its military, of journalists and pundits and political analysts:

1. How many displaced Iraqis have gone home?
2. When are displaced Iraqis going home?
3. How many schools are operating normally, at or near full attendance, on all school days, and where are they located?

Iraqis will go home, certainly most of them, at some point in time. Relatively few will resettle permanently in other countries, for various reasons -- home is home, other countries will not allow them in, or if they are already in a foreign country as refugees they will not be allowed to remain. But they will only go when they know their homes are no longer threatening places to be.

For those of you with friends or relatives or acquaintances serving in Iraq, they might not be able for security reasons to tell you much about where they are or what they are doing. But there are primary and secondary schools everywhere in Iraq. Ask them how the local schools are doing.

Ask them to check them out. Are the schools operating regularly? Are all the students attending their classes? Is the school normally staffed with enough teachers?

It’s not about snow days or hurricane days. Parents in Iraq, as parents anywhere, do not send their children to school when neighborhood security is not really right.

Answers to the first question will indicate the progress being made.

Answers to the second question will indicate thoughts and trends.

Answers to the third question will indicate locations and the level of security in those locations.

In May 1992 the Kurdistan Region conducted the first internationally-observed free and fair elections in Iraq since the country was formed by the British. The British “cooked” Iraq from three major remnants of the Ottoman Empire that sided with Germany and suffered defeat during WW-I. Those elections were regional elections. The regime of Saddam Hussein had nothing to do with them.

Following those elections, a regional parliament was formed, the Kurdistan National Assembly (KNA), and also a government, the Kurdistan Regional Government (KRG). Both the KNA and the KRG continue to this day.

How did we get to those elections? And how did we get to where we are since those elections? This is the story of Iraqi Kurdistan, a story of the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. It is also a story of Iraq today, and quite possibly a story for the Iraq of the future.

Kurdistan, which means the land of the Kurds, is a region that covers substantial and important parts of primarily Turkey, Iran, Iraq, and Syria. There are also groups of Kurds in Armenia, Lebanon, and other countries in that Middle Eastern part of the world. In this Greater Kurdistan there are more than 25 million Kurds, the largest ethnic group in the world without a country of their own. Most Kurds live in Turkey, about 12 million, 5-6 million in Iraq, about 6 million in Iran, 1-2 million in Syria.

Kurds are Kurds, they speak Kurdish. Turks are Turks, they speak Turkish. Arabs are Arabs, they speak Arabic. These three languages are very different from each other, in very different language families. Three people, each speaking one of these languages, and each speaking only one language, cannot communicate with each other.

Kurds, Turks, and Arabs are peoples of many centuries. Kurds claim an ancestry going back more than 4,000 years. Turks came from the East, from Central Asia perhaps 1,000 years ago. Arabs came up from Arabia over dozens of centuries.

The City of Erbil, where I live in Iraqi Kurdistan, the regional capital, has about one million people and is said to be the oldest continuously inhabited human settlement in the world, perhaps 10,000 years old.

Along with language differences, to these three separate peoples we have to add thousands of years of heritage, legacies, and culture differences. Over these thousands of years we have to highlight the addition of religions: Zoroastrianism, Yezidism, Judaism, Christianity, Islam, and the Sabeans (followers of John the Baptist who are neither Christian nor Muslim). And there are other religions, like the Kakayee who tell me their beliefs are more akin to Buddhism. And then there is the very major Muslim split between the Sunni and the Shia. And within all these religions there are various sects and splits and fractions and factions.

The Christians are split among the so-called Assyrians some of whom are Nestorians, also known as the Church of the East or Ancient Church of the East, one of the oldest Christian communities in the world, from the 2nd century at least. Some Assyrians follow the new calendar and some the old calendar (Justinian vs. Gregorian, I forget which is which).

And then in the 17th century Rome inserted itself into the picture and brought some of the Assyrians into their camp to eventually form the Chaldean Catholic Church. It was about the Protestants and the Catholics, déjà vu all over again.

The head of the Assyrian church, the Church of the East, their Patriarch, sits in Chicago. The head of the Chaldean Church sits in Baghdad, or at least the last time I knew. I have heard that for security reasons he may be moving to Erbil. The seminary and other religious organizations have already moved to the Kurdistan Region.

Incidentally, both the Assyrians and Chaldeans speak a derivative of Aramaic, the language spoken by Jesus Christ.

Let me make absolutely and emphatically clear, based on my long and personal experience, in Iraq all these ethnicities and all these religions can live, and do live, very respectfully and very warmly with each other. They have learned to do so over centuries.

They share and participate in each others’ festivities. Muslims visit with their Christian friends and colleagues on Easter.
Christians visit with their Muslim friends and colleagues on Eid. This has been normal over centuries. There is no hate between Iraqi communities as we learned of the hate between European communities in the former Yugoslavia.

How do I know this? I know if from Baghdad where I lived for a year in 1991-92. My staff was Muslim and Christian, Arab and Kurd, Shia and Sunni. We also had Palestinians. We had very enjoyable social times together. And I noticed that they looked out for each other, regardless of their ethnic or religious backgrounds.

I also know it from people today in Iraq who express shock when they and the people around them are being labeled according to their ethnicity and religion. It is happening for the first time in their lives and they don’t like it.

I also know this from the Kurdistan Region of today that is personally secure and politically stable. Any one of you, woman or man, can take the keys of my vehicle in Erbil and move anywhere throughout the Region, at anytime day or night, alone without armed guards. I do, and have always done so. You will not be harmed. We have virtually no crime. And we are virtually drug-free. (And we have no taxes.) We have other major issues to deal with, but not these issues. Yet. So far.

Thousands of families have been fleeing their homes in Baghdad, Mosul, and other threatening parts of Iraq to the Kurdistan Region. They are not only Kurds but also Arab. They are not only Muslim, they are also Christian. They are not only Sunni, they are also Shia. In the Kurdistan Region they have no problem with each other; they live side by side; their children play with each other and go to school together.

Much of the Kurdistan Region is mountainous. During the flaming furnace hot summer busloads of Arab tourists from Mosul and other places outside the Region flock to the Kurdistan Region to relax from the prevailing oppressive threat of violence and summer heat, camp out, walk the walk, drink the drink, and breathe free, without guards, without weapons. Because of all the tourists, since 2003 some of my favorite places have become unbearable.

In 2003 when General Petraeus was commander of the 101st Airborne (the Screaming Eagles) in Mosul, which is less than an hour’s drive from where I live, his soldiers would come to Kurdistan for R&R. Touch wood, no American soldier, marine, seaman, or airman has become a fatality in combat or in a terrorist incident in Kurdistan, not even in an accident. I have often observed American military personnel in the markets of Kurdistan, in uniform without weapons, out on picnics with local people, and in the crowd at a trade fair.

I first went to Iraq in 1991 and have been there ever since. Perhaps I am the longest serving American in the country. I went there following 21 years in international relief and development work in the in South Asia (India and Bangladesh) and in East Africa (Somalia). During those 21 years, personal security wasn’t much of an issue to be concerned with. Though India and Bangladesh had their unstable moments, personal security wasn’t an issue even during the 1971 Indo-Pakistan War when the USG tilted toward Pakistan. At the time, I was in India up near the front lines where I had been serving as a Peace Corps Volunteer and trainer.

Even in Somalia during the early 1980s personal security wasn’t much of an issue. At the time, its capital Mogadishu, where ‘Blackhawk Down’ occurred some years later, was reputed to be among the safest capitals in the world. With a 2,000-mile coastline of endless beaches, and lobster most everyday, we would get together with a few families, take our LandCruisers way down or way up the coast and spend overnights sleeping on the beach. Security just wasn’t an issue.

Those 21 years followed early years here in Hilo beginning at the former Hilo General Hospital near Rainbow Falls, once a Peace Corps Training Center, now the County Annex. I did not do my Peace Corps training there, I was born there.

Schooling began at Keakealani School in Volcano Village, then a 2-room schoolhouse with 2 teachers, 4 grades in 1 room, 2 grades in the other, and the mobile library, the bookmobile, came around once a week. It’s wonderful to see the school still operating today as a Department of Education Outdoor Education Center. It looks better today - well maintained -- than I remember it. On the other hand, the former Hilo General Hospital needs substantial attention to restore its prominence.

My father was military and he was involved in reopening Kilauea Military Camp (KMC) in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park during the Korean War. Back then I was the only kid at KMC where I wandered off without permission and eluded supervision exploring the forests and steam cracks and pushing the envelope of my world. I really haven’t stopped.

Eventually, more children came to KMC and some were older who needed to attend schools with grades beyond Keakealani’s capacity and so we began commuting to Hilo, up and down 32 miles everyday on the twisting and narrow old Volcano Road that ran in front of KMC and the park headquarters and by the Volcano House, past the Volcano Store and “Hongo” Store and the Girl Scout (Kilauea) Lodge to Hilo, for me to St. Joseph’s School, for others to Hilo High and other schools. The highway you know today outside the park entrance and behind KMC did not exist back then.

Between Kilauea Starbucks and the Hongwanji temple there are two properties, one a financial services office, the other today a parking lot. A few years ago in that parking lot next to Starbucks there was an old heritage house that, unfortunately, has been torn down. It was known by many as "Termite Tavern" from where on occasion singing could be heard -- something about eagles flying high.

My great great great grandfather, from China, died in that house in 1895, still with his queue. He left quite a paper trail about the earliest plantations he started on this island (in Waimea, Kohala, and Ponohawai), the first bowling alley, inter-island shipping, and properties. He became a Catholic late in life and it is said he donated some property to St. Joseph’s.

Next door, next to the Hongwanji temple where a financial services office stands tofday, was my grandfather’s house. He worked for the then Hilo Tribune-Herald from 1909 to 1959, yes, 50 years. Legend has it he never took a day of sick leave. My mother talks of going to the movies free with siblings and others because her mother, my grandmother, sold tickets for many years at the Hilo Theater and Palace Theater.

My father was transferred to ROTC duty in Central New York where we lived for some seven years. Later, when he was assigned to Korea for a year we returned to Hilo. That was 1959-1960, one full high school year with that most awesome of eruptions at Kilauea Iki, and the eruption at Kapoho that inundated Warm Springs featured in the 1950s version of "Bird of Paradise" starring Debra Paget, Louis Jourdan, and Jeff Chandler.

And of course there was the 1960 tsunami that ended across the street from my grandparents’ home on Kilauea Ave, which was half as wide as it is today. We were there at the time and took refuge in the higher, stronger, cement Hongwanji temple next door. I very well remember the post 2am tea prepared for us on a wood stove.

Then it was back to Central New York where I finished high school and attended the university of Jimmy Brown, Ernie Davis, Floyd Little, Larry Czonka, Dave Bing, and Jim Boeheim. Coincidently, Syracuse is the home and headquarters of the Franciscan nuns who run St. Joseph’s School here in Hilo and worked with Father Damien on Molokai.

Remember 1968? After university graduation it was Peace Corps and 40 continuous years (next year) in a public service career in international relief and development with NGOs (nongovernmental organizations), the United Nations, and as a government advisor and consultant. About in the middle of those 40 years I decided to take a break, get off the firing line, and go to graduate school.

And then I went to Iraq. It was the refugee crisis following war over Kuwait in early 1991. I had refugee logistics experience from Somalia and food logistics experience from many years in India and Bangladesh. A half million Iraqis fled to Turkey, a million to Iran, perhaps another half million to Syria, Jordan, and Saudi Arabia. Two million Iraqis fled their country. Perhaps another million were displaced within the country -- not refugees but IDPs, internally displaced persons.

As I believe you know from incessant news articles and other reports, the main ethnic groups in Iraq are Arabs and Kurds. But there are also other non-Arab and non-Kurd ethnic groups. There are the Turkmen who came from Central Asia. There are non-Arab and non-Kurd Christians who believe they are descendants of the ancient Assyrian Empire. And there are Armenians, Greeks, Palestinians, and other minorities.

Kurds are mostly Sunni, but there are also Shia Kurds (Failies). There are also Christian Kurds, Yezidi Kurds, and Kaykayee Kurds. There were Jewish Kurds. Most Iraqi Jews, including Jewish Kurds, have long departed Iraq for Israel, the U.S., and other countries. A former Israeli defense minister is a Jewish Kurd.

When the British created Iraq following WW-I during the 1920s they favored the minority Sunnis and put them in charge. They even imported a Sunni from outside Iraq and installed him as king. From its beginning, Iraq was designated an Arab country even though there were many in Iraq who were not Arab, like the Kurds. This all occurred during the time of Lawrence of Arabia and that amazing woman, Gertrude Bell.

By the way, you may have read about the intrepid British woman Isabella Bird who visited Hawaii in the 1870s and wrote letters to her sister that were published by UH, and others, in a book "Six Months in the Sandwich Isle"? Ms. Bird visited the Big Island, went to the top of Mauna Loa and rode the gulches up the Hamakua Coast. No bridges back then. She said, “Hilo is what Honolulu tries to be.” Anyway, after she finished her intrepidness/intrepidity in Hawaii she continued being intrepid in the Rockies, China, and many other places, including Iraqi Kurdistan.

No one welcomes being dominated by anyone else. The Kurds certainly were not about to tolerate being dominated by Arabs. Following WW-I, one international treaty offered the Kurds a country of their own. But later, another treaty that had more to do with Turkey’s interests than Kurdish interests took the offer off the table.

No country has had more difficulty accepting Kurds as Kurds than Turkey. For decades, Turkey did not tolerate the words Kurd, Kurdish, Kurdistan, the Kurdish language, Kurdish dress, Kurdish music, Kurdish radio and TV programs, even Kurdish names for children. In Turkey, Kurds have been called not Kurds, but mountain Turks. This has finally begun to change, however, under pressure of the EU, which Turkey wants to become a member of.

And so, from Iraq’s birth following WW-I began a series of revolts, uprisings, and insurgencies (not terrorism) by the Kurds against the British-installed Baghdad government. This opposition was largely led by Mulla Mustafa Barzani, a legendary Braveheart and Kamehameha character. In his book "The First Dissident," about the Book of Job in contemporary politics, William Safire offers the dedication to Mullah Mustafa Barzani. Safire said Mustafa Barzani was the most Joban character he had ever met.

Mullah Mustafa Barzani is the father of Masoud Barzani, President of the Kurdistan Region. And he is the grandfather of Nechirvan Barzani, Prime Minister of the Kurdistan Regional Government. Mulla Mustafa Barzani came to the U.S. for cancer treatment and died in McLean, Virginia in 1979.

In 1946, following dramatic events and threatened by the governments of Iraq, Iran, and Turkey, Mulla Mustafa Barzani fled across the mountains with 500 fighters (“peshmerga”, those who face death) to Russia where he remained until the overthrow of the Iraqi monarchy in 1958. He was welcomed back in triumph by his followers and by the new government that provided generous support and facilities. He was the undisputed leader of the Kurds.

As Mullah Mustafa Barzani struggled to gain more rights for his people who were being treated as second-class Iraqis, relations with the Baghdad government deteriorated and eventually broke down. On September 11th 1961 Mullah Mustafa began the Kurdish revolution that continued until the overthrow of the regime of Saddam Hussein in 2003.

Most of 1961 to 2003 was the Cold War period. Iraq leaned toward the USSR and Iran leaned toward the US. Iraq acquired Soviet military equipment and Iran acquired American military equipment. Mullah Mustafa Barzani led an insurgency against Baghdad to serve Kurdish interests, and so the U.S. Government (through Iran) provided him with support to serve U.S. interests.

In 1975, the Shah of Iran and Saddam Hussein cut a dirty deal in Algiers, known as the Algiers accords, that pulled the rug out from under Mullah Mustafa Barzani and the Iraqi Kurds. To this day, the Kurdish leadership regards Henry Kissinger complicitous in the treachery. When questioned about this before a Senate committee, Kissinger retorted, “Covert action should not be confused with missionary work.”

As a result of the collapse of the Kurdish national movement, tens of thousands of Kurds fled Iraq, mostly to Iran where they lived as refugees for many years. Some found their way to the United States, others to the UK, Germany, Austria, France, Sweden, Norway, even Finland, and many other countries. This was the Kurdish Diaspora. Thirty years later, many have returned to their destroyed communities in Kurdistan. They have been rebuilding their homes and continue to rebuild their lives. Home is always home. Life goes on.

Throughout the 1960s, 1970s, and especially during the 1980s, more than 4,000 communities throughout the Kurdistan Region were completely destroyed, flattened, made uninhabitable. Many communities were quite small, like the smaller former plantation communities on the Big Island; a few were larger than Hilo. More homes and other structures and facilities than exist on the Big Island today were completely destroyed back then. That’s how I found the Kurdistan Region in 1991.

The people of the Kurdistan Region were forced to flee to neighboring countries as refugees, or to the few larger cities, thus overburdening public services. Other thousands of families were forced into some 75 so-called "collective towns" located in areas far from their ancestral communities where they could be watched and controlled.

They were disconnected from their lands and livelihoods. Being a native people, not unlike the Hawaiian people in some ways, they were disconnected from the roots of their culture. In concept, Saddam’s collective towns were not unlike the reservations for Native Americans established in Oklahoma. The Kurds had many trails of tears.

As Saddam tied himself up in war with Iran during the 1980s, the Kurds tried to take advantage of the situation to claim their rights and win back their homes and lands. When the war finally finished eight years later, Saddam, especially his cousin known as Chemical Ali, turned Iraq’s well-equipped and battle-hardened military and security forces toward Iraqi Kurdistan.

The G-word, “genocide,” is now applied to this period, known locally in Kurdistan as the Anfal Campaign, of systematic destruction and disappearance. Atrocities were committed extensively throughout the Region. More than 100,000 people disappeared. As more and more communities were destroyed, tens of thousands of families were forced to migrate. Some fled to neighboring countries and became refugees, others became IDPs within Iraq. For decades, life was about constant oppression, repression, fear, destruction, displacement, disappearance, and disrupted lives. But life goes on.

Halabja, which had about the same population as Hilo (some 50,000 persons) is the most infamous incident of chemical weapons being used against civilians in Iraq, or anywhere for that matter. But it is not the only incident. Chemical weapons were used all across the Kurdistan Region, in dozens of locations, from the northwest near the border with Turkey down to the southeast near the border with Iran. I have been to many of these sites when the remnants of the bombs were still scattered around.

Iraq is an incredibly, unimaginably, terribly rich country. It is commonly said that Iraq has the third largest oil reserves in the world. But that’s based on very old data. Little exploration has been done in Iraq since that data was collected and analyzed during the 1980s. And there have been significant advances in oil exploration technology since the 1980s that have yet to be applied in Iraq. Iraq might very well have the largest oil reserves in the world.

Iraqi oil is shallow, sweet, very high quality, with the lowest production costs in the world. Today, only 1,500 wells in Iraq produce 2 million barrels per day. And many of these wells are in poor condition due to events since 1991 and the current situation.

A well is a well. How many wells do American companies have here in the United States? How much oil are they producing?
I know one private company here in the states with 4,000 wells.

Due to current circumstances regarding security, Iraq is having a hard time spending all the billions it has been earning from its 1,500 poorly producing wells. Imagine if the circumstances were different and Iraq had 4,000 wells employing the latest technology and producing optimally.

It is not only the oil, it is also the gas. Iraq has tremendous gas reserves. And there are also substantial sulphur deposits, and other minerals. And it is not only the oil and gas and minerals. Unlike most Middle Eastern countries, Iraq also has good water. Coming down from the mountains of Kurdistan are streams and rivers that flow into the Tigris and Euphrates river systems.

Iraq also has great agricultural potential. The tastiest fruits and vegetables I’ve ever eaten are produced in Iraq -- apples and apricots, figs and pomegranates, all kinds of melons, tomatoes and cucumbers, all the fruits and vegetables you know. Wonderful honeys, including unique high mountain wildflower honeys, all organic of course.

Iraq’s economic growth potential is exponential. It is relatively easy to produce oil, export it, and take the cash to buy whatever you want. But Iraq could add tremendous value to its oil by establishing refineries and petrochemical industries. Its gas could be used for power generation. Producing and exporting petroleum products and power to neighboring countries and the rest of the world would only add more tremendous wealth to the value of its tremendous oil and gas and other natural resources.

But Iraq’s greatest resource of course is its people -- educated, skilled, and hardworking. Iraq is a country of about 27 million people, not overpopulated. Proportionately, Iraq might very well have more engineers than the U.S. Iraq probably has, proportionately, more women engineers; about half the engineers in Iraq are women.

Engineering and science have very high status in Iraq. High school graduates take nationwide exams. Those with the highest marks are entitled to study in the status fields of medicine and engineering. No need to apply; high marks virtually guarantee admission. Women being better students (of course), many shy away from blood and become engineers.

Iraq’s education is relatively weak in the important social sciences. High school graduates with high marks, due to the status of science and engineering, would not normally be allowed by their families to study political science or economics or education, for instance. Iraq has many universities and technical institutes. There are seven universities plus technical institutes in the Kurdistan Region.

All Iraqi oil (and gas) belongs to all Iraqi people, not to private companies. All natural resources belong to the government and are under government control. Thus, all the revenues from these resources belong to the Iraqi people and are under the control of the government.

In 1980, Saddam took the country’s oil wealth and went to war with Iran. That failed. Then he took the wealth and committed genocide against the Kurds in the late 1980s. And then he invaded Kuwait in 1990.

This is the history that does not allow the Kurdistan Region to accept excessively centralized political and economic power. The Kurdistan leadership believes, as do I, that over time such centralization will be used against them and their people. Instead, the Kurdistan Region has been promoting federalism, not independence, since 1992 when the KRG was formed and they agreed to remain part of Iraq. They adopted all the laws and administrative structures of Iraq, except of course for the laws and structures of oppression.

Iraq was the land of free lunch. Life’s necessities were either free or heavily subsidized. The only real essential thing Iraqis needed from their parents was their birth. There were virtually no taxes. Food and housing was subsidized. Water and electricity and other utilities were almost free. Education and health services were reputedly the best in the Middle East, all free. All university graduates got jobs in government if they did not go into the private sector.

Government was expected to provide, and government did provide. You can imagine what we are going through to wean people away from this unrealistic and socially harmful expectation.

Saddam’s invasion of Kuwait in August 1990 led to war in early 1991 by a US-led coalition that left him in power. President Bush Sr. gave the signal to the Iraqi people for an uprising that was at first quite successful, but then it was brutally crushed sending thousands of families from the Kurdistan Region into the mountains along the border with Turkey and Iran during winter. Tens of thousands suffered, and thousands died.

You may remember Secretary of State James Baker finally visiting the refugee camps after incessant media pressure that kept the heat on. I was here in Hilo at the time trying to land a position in Jakarta, one of the few places in developing countries where there was a good international high school for my children. The media drew me into Iraq and I’ve been there ever since. I called a former UN colleague and found myself in those camps within ten days with UNHCR, the UN refugee agency.

Something very unique happened back then. The international community got its act together and performed the first humanitarian intervention, a foreign intervention without the permission of the host country. Credit goes to the media, UK Prime Minister John Major, Turkish President Turgut Ozal, and particularly Bernard Kouchner, a founder of the NGO Medicines Sans Frontieres (MSF, Doctors Without Borders) who is today the Foreign Minister of France.

The U.S. led a military coalition of forces from eleven countries to provide security and humanitarian assistance to the refugees in the mountains along the Iraq-Turkey border. I was assigned by the UN to liaise with the coalition forces headed by then Lieutenant General Shalikashvili who went on to become the commander of NATO forces and eventually replace General Colin Powell as Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff.

He was assisted by Major General Jay Garner who headed Iraq reconstruction in 2003 before being replaced by Jerry Bremer. There was also Brigadier General Tony Zinni who collected three more stars and went on to become CENTCOM commander, a position held by General Schwarzkopf during the 1991 war.

It was an extremely hard and hectic time. I gained a whole new appreciation of the U.S. military, its super competence and
capabilities. They were on their way home when they were diverted to implement this humanitarian intervention. They
couldn’t do enough to turn over the program to the UN and go home. I had any helicopter I wanted.

The Coalition established a no-fly zone to keep Iraqi helicopters out and pushed the Iraqi military and security forces out of a portion of the Kurdistan Region to create a security zone. Tens of thousands of refugees poured out of the mountains and went home, perhaps the fastest refugee return in history. It was no longer about fear and fighting. It was almost hectic fun. Actually, at times it was fun. Coalition forces had a satisfying and successful time making it happen.

Saddam was weak but not out. With Coalition forces in the Kurdistan Region, the Kurdistan leadership began negotiating the future with Saddam. Negotiations were somewhat progressing, but then the Coalition pulled out and negotiations stalled. Saddam was back in full control, though an international embargo was placed on Iraq until he complied with WMD requirements.

The war was early in 1991, January-February, the refugees returned home by May, and Coalition forces withdrew from Iraq by July. Iraq was back to being all Iraqi.

In October, Saddam withdrew Iraqi central government administration from only part of the Kurdistan Region, established a militarized line separating the region from the rest of the country, effectively abandoning more than three million Iraqi citizens. Food and fuel supplies were cut off and electricity from the national grid was tuned off.

And in November 1991 more than 100,000 persons, more than 20,000 families, were evicted from Kirkuk into the Kurdistan Region. I was there with the UN and we had to handle this additional crisis. Where do you find and how do you provide housing and basic services for 20,000 families, immediately?! What about food and basic personal items? Winter was fast approaching.

The successful humanitarian intervention by U.S.-led coalition forces and the UN, and many NGOs, caused many refugees who had fled Iraq ten or more years earlier to return. It was the summer of 1991, flaming hot and dry. From May to October there’s hardly a drop of rain in Iraq, even in the northern mountains. People were camped out everywhere along the main roads.

Some were going back to their destroyed communities in the secured areas. Some of the homes were still in unsecured areas, like the homes of the 20,000+ families who were evicted from Kirkuk. What to do? Again, winter was fast approaching.

In August, UNHCR formulated a plan to provide basic shelter. In September, I was part of a procurement team that went on a shopping spree next door in Turkey. In October, 3,000 truckloads of building materials arrived that were distributed throughout the mountains -- roofing materials, a door, a window, and some tools. The idea was for families to build for themselves a one-room winterized shelter from the rock and mud rubble of their destroyed communities. Over 50,000 families did. In addition, we imported 3,000 two-family fabricated winter shelters from Turkey for those evictees from Kirkuk. We also housed many families in former military facilities and abandoned public buildings.

It was a terrible winter, the worst winter ever since. I froze. One thing that helped me get though the winter was a US military casualty bag (not a body bag). Down-filled, huge, made for seven-footers, top quality, completely opened up to make a nice bed quilt, with a fur-lined hood. Not for backpackers. They were made for field casualties in the winter during the Korean War. Someone had the spark to empty out the warehouse somewhere in the States and send the contents to Kurdistan. We also received 235,000 pairs of trousers and 95,000 shirts, high quality wool surge, size small.

The refugee crisis of the previous winter evoked a tremendous outpouring of humanitarian supplies from primarily America and Europe. Much of it came from militaries -- military rations, Czech military boots, Norwegian military tents. And there was an enormous amount of winter clothing. Of course, by the time it arrived winter was over.

In future, if you feel the urge to help in such emergency situations, it is infinitely better to send cash to a reputable NGO such as CARE. In-kind donations cost a lot more to sort and pack and transport and warehouse and distribute. They delay distribution. Cash allows bulk procurement of only essential items at best prices from the closest sources, and greatly facilitate transport, storage, and distribution.

The Kurdistan leaders, who had been leading full lives of perpetual political maneuverings and insurgency, without public service experience -- no public policy, public management, public administration experience -- were suddenly saddled with governing a Switzerland-sized territory with over 3 million people. Though he was not forced to do so, Saddam threw down the gauntlet at them, probably anticipating they would fail and the people would come groveling, prevailing on him as supreme leader to take them back.

Fat chance. This is what led to the very successful regional elections of 1992. A separately administered autonomous region finally began to take shape, without violating the territorial integrity of Iraq. It wasn’t about independence back then, and it is not about independence now.

Turkey, Iran, and Syria had real problems with this development and though they had serious problems with each other they would hold joint meetings at the foreign minister level to discuss the new fact of a Kurdistan autonomous region on their borders. Over the following years they would do their best to undermine the region.

Throughout much of the 1990s the KRG was weak and under development. There were explosions and assassinations. There was a civil war that severely destabilized the Region. The KRG had almost no resources. If internal problems were not enough, there were the “lovely” neighbors. At the time, Syria was harboring the PKK, a Turkish Kurdish insurgency group with a separatist goal, which was fighting against Turkey. The PKK, also a threat to Iraqi Kurds, had the run of Iraqi Kurdistan at the time. Not so today.

Turkey invaded Iraq numerous times to attack the PKK. The Turkish military often had a hard time distinguishing Iraqi Kurds from Turkish Kurdish insurgents. Shelling and military incursions by the Turkish military continued throughout the 1990s. Iran invaded the Region in 1996, supposedly chasing after armed dissidents involved in cross-border operations. And, despite the no-fly zone, which wasn’t a no-drive zone, Saddam also invaded the Kurdistan Region during the 1990s.

Within the three main Iraq groups – the Arab Sunni, the Arab Shia, and the Kurds -- there are strong divisions. Overall, Iraq -- politically, not socially or culturally -- is a very deeply divided country. These divisions are about political power, about protection and privilege. It’s not about being an individual. There are no individuals in Iraq, only groups.

First loyalty is to the family, which is part of a clan, which is part of a tribe or larger ethno-religious group. No one can claim to be just an individual human being without an ethnic or religious background. In Iraq, his (or her) society does not allow it. And in some areas of Iraq it is this reality that determines whether they live or die.

Most Iraqis are people we all would have absolutely no problem with. Most easily understand and readily accept that they want to live as they want to live, and to let others live as they want to live. The caveat is that no harm should be done.

But there are those who have huge problems with this. And it is these people at the moment who have the upper hand. Nothing stays the same, however. This will change.

The Kurdistan Region is a strong indication of abundant possibilities and tremendous potential available, at least theoretically, to all Iraqis. Throughout the 1990s the Kurdistan Region went through a civil war and intense struggles and uncertainty, with severely limited resources, in isolation from the rest of the world, under a double embargo, actively threatened by all four neighbors, and with strong internal divisions.

Over time, the Kurdistan Region got its act together more and more, warring parties eventually accepted they were “condemned” to live with each other, rivalries mellowed, there were the 1998 Washington accords that helped halt armed conflict and promote reconciliation that continues to this day. It is indeed becoming better and better.

Life goes on. Sometimes it gets worse before it gets better. There were periods in the Kurdistan Region when people, especially young people, despaired that they had no future. (Half the population of Iraq is under 20.) But over decades they went through struggles and sacrifices, community destruction, dislocations and disappearances, and severely disrupted lives. They went though it all, returned, and are resuming and rebuilding their lives. The evidence is everywhere today throughout the Kurdistan Region of Iraq.

Reconstruction and resettlement have been the central focus of my many years in Iraq. There are many aspects to this -- health and education, water and sanitation, utilities, agriculture, even landmine related activities. There are more than 10 million landmines in the Kurdistan Region, mostly along the border with Iran, from the Iraq-Iran War.

We received a great boost in developing long neglected and under-developed public services with the UN oil-for-food program, which is a huge story that I will not get into here. This UN-managed program earned $70 billion, 75 percent of which was to have been spent on humanitarian benefits for the Iraqi people.

Despite the program’s deficiencies and severe shortcomings, about $10 billion was made available to the Kurdistan Region. All the work being done and goods provided substantially improved public services and injected a lot of cash into the regional economy through hundreds of infrastructure projects that employed local expertise and labor. Security continued to improve and life eventually got better.

This went on for seven years until April 2003 when the door to the world was blown open, literally. The Kurdistan Region, which had long gotten its security and political act together, aggressively pursued commercial opportunities. Public services and capital project activities expanded and accelerated everywhere. On virtually every street new homes are being constructed, or old homes are being renovated and modernized. This of course required expanded trade in building materials and provided more jobs. And all of this was being done on a cash-only basis.

And so here we are today. This is the Kurdistan Region with its engines running, on the runway taking off. But the Kurdistan Region is not the rest of Iraq that is of immense concern to us today.

How to consider this immense concern? I suggest that you look at it not as a house fire where you call 911 and the fire department comes and douses the flames. The rest of Iraq is really more like a wildfire or forest fire or Waikaloa grassfire where the best that can be done is to contain and limit the destruction until it runs out of fuel and burns itself out. Iraq’s insurgency will burn itself out.

It is not at all of course satisfying to know that those fueling the violence in Iraq, if they are not killed or captured, will get tired and wear themselves out. Yes of course there will be replacements. But as time goes on, the violence will decrease and displaced Iraqis will return to their homes.

The Kurdistan leadership has gotten its act together. They are the graduates. The Shia leadership is still in primary school, or to be more charitable, they are going into middle school. The Sunni leaders are the dropouts; in effect, there is no Sunni leadership to lead the Sunnis.

Without personal security and political stability Iraq cannot begin to meet its full potential where all citizens live in peace and pursue a future of great economic prosperity. There is nothing inherent within the Iraqi people that indicates otherwise, though some Iraqis would like to argue to the contrary. The rapport and camaraderie among various leaders and groups are real.

They understand each other quite well. They just haven’t yet figured out how to live with each other and handle rivalries for power in a manner that serves the public interest. The sorting-out process takes time, which can only occur at their own pace, not on the US Government’s timetable.

There are increasing indications that tiredness is just beginning to finally set in and the fuel driving the violence is diminishing. These indications are still very weak. There are various sortings out going on amongst the Shia and amongst the Sunni. It has started at the lower local level, not at the upper central level. Marriages of convenience are taking place and in some localized situations the violence is indeed decreasing and security is improving. Stability, however, is still a very long ways off.

Is the situation in Iraq finally beginning to improve? There is the Kurdistan Region’s experience that clearly indicates the possibilities. But we have to go back to the original three fundamental questions:

Dear General Petraeus, Ambassador Crocker:

1. How many displaced Iraqis have gone home?
2. When are displaced Iraqis going home?
3. How many schools are operating normally, at or near full attendance, on all school days, and where are they located?

Thank you.

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