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Iraqi Kurds snub dentists for Miracle Tree
12.8.2006
By Dilshad Kawani in Erbil (ICR No. 189)
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Hundreds flock to Erbil in hope of unconventional
cure for their dental problems.
Erbil, Kurdistan-Iraq
Zheeno Ahmed recited the first chapter of the Koran
as she hammered a nail into the trunk of the tree,
convinced that the ritual would heal her sore tooth.
"This is my fifth time here," said the 19-year-old
Erbil resident. "Whenever one of my teeth starts to
decay or aches, I come here and it helps me. Some
have healed."
Ahmed is among hundreds who rely not on medicine or
dentists to cure their aches and pains, but rather
what has become known as the Nail Tree, located in
the Sarban mountain range 30 kilometres north of the
Kurdish capital Erbil.
The tree, which measures about three metres high
with a circumference of about 2.5 metres, is pocked
with nails hammered in by people who believe in its
power to cure toothaches. It is so full now that
there are even nails in its branches.
"People come from all over to visit the Nail Tree,"
said Mohammed Nimet, the 24-year-old owner of a
small shop in front of the tree, which sells kilos
of nails to visitors.
"They come from cities in Iraqi Kurdistan, Turkey,
Iran and southern Iraq. Some of them come to heal
their dental problems, some come to see the famous
tree and others to visit the holy site."
The tree lies on what is believed to be a holy man's
grave in an area largely inhabited by Sufis, who
follow a sect of Islam known for its rituals and
mysticism.
Qasim Mazhar, 82, one of the top scholars of the
Qadiri Sufi order in the area, said the site is
undoubtedly connected to a pious man, but its exact
history is unknown as there is no gravestone.
One theory is that the tree, which locals estimate
to be about 150 years old, sits on the grave of a
man named Younis Abu-Fatih, a friend of the Prophet
Mohammed who some speculate was martyred at the
site.
But no one can say why people believe the tree can
heal problem teeth.
Locals - there are about 35 families from the Harki
tribe in the village - say the tree is an important
part of their history. "Our fathers and forefathers
since long ago considered [it] sacred,” said
Mohammed Abdi Aziz, a spokesman for the village.
“They fought for it several times with the Turks,
with the British. We've lost 42 men in these battles
to defend the tree.
"Our village could be destroyed, our children
slaughtered, but the Nail Tree would be safe."
Hussein Seesa Aziz, a 75-year-old villager, is one
of many who attest to the power of the site. He
recounts one tale in which a shepherd tried to set
fire to the tree, and the next day he lost 42 sheep
when they were attacked by wolves. The shepherd
later died of a strange abdominal pain.
Others have laid items at the base of the tree to
keep them safe, he said. The cottage of a man who
stole these personal effects caught fire.
Many conflicts in the village have also been
resolved under the tree, according to Hussein.
Dentists, however, are not among the believers.
Friyad Kamal, a practitioner in Erbil, says the tree
has hurt his business and worries that people may be
neglecting their teeth by putting all of their faith
in such an unscientific cure.
"To some extent it is our fault because we have been
negligent [in treatment] but not all dentists are
alike," said Kamal.
Many of the faithful are poorly educated and
superstitious - but there are some exceptions.
Suad Malik, a 28-year-old Arabic language graduate
from the University of Mosul in northwestern Iraq,
said that during her pregnancy, she came to hammer
32 nails into the tree for her unborn child. "My
mother came to this tree and tapped some nails in
it," she said. "That's why everyone in my family has
nice and healthy teeth."
Dilshad Kawani is an IWPR trainee journalist in
Erbil.
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