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A
short stroll through the rows of the bazaar in
Mahabad, in the heart of Iranian Kurdistan, is all
that is required to pick up Chinese ceramics
imported from Iraq, of all places. Or to be more
precise, from Iraqi Kurdistan. Between Kurdish Iran
and Iraq, the smuggling routes and small-time
profiteers are many. The majority gain entry onto
Iranian soil through two places – the towns of
Sardasht in the south and Piranshahr further to the
north.
On the hillside, Sardasht gives off the air of a
picturesque village. Some of the women cover their
glittery taffeta dresses with the black Islamic
veil. As for the men, they wear traditional Kurdish
dress – baggy trousers (pantol), shirts in identical
colours (keva), together with silk shoes (klash).
But this idyllic image is cut short once you notice
the signs of endemic unemployment and lack of
development.
Looking at road maps, you could be forgiven for
thinking that Sardasht is more of a cul-de-sac. But
the many dusty off-road vehicles, mainly Nissans and
Toyotas, parked in the roads of Sardasht belie the
fact that there are journeys underway across the
mountain roads that link the two Kurdistans.
“We can get to Iraq without any problems at all,
whether to go to Arbil, Kirkuk or Sulaymaniyah”,
observes Jafar, a customer of one of the town’s few
tchaikana (tea-houses). “It takes just three hours
to reach Iraqi Kurdistan from Sardasht via the side
roads. You don’t need a visa. If you get stopped by
the police, a passport will do.” It takes six hours
to get from Mahabad to Arbil, the key point of Iraqi
Kurdistan, on the monitored and tarmacked roads,
twice as long as by the mountains.
Bananas from Iraq
Whether small-scale or organised, smuggling brings
fruit, whiskey, vodka, tea and other foodstuffs
manufactured in Iraqi Kurdish towns to Iranian
Kurdistan. Whereas the majority of smuggled goods
arrive via Sardasht, alcohol ends up in Iranian
Kurdistan through the town of Piranshahr.
“Since the Kurd Talabani came to power in Iraq,
relations between Teheran and Baghdad have become
strained”, adds Said, the brother of Jafar. “Iran is
scared. The borders have been tightened and
smuggling has increased.”
Most Kurds in Iran have family in Iraq, particularly
in the Arbil region. Iranian Kurds are permitted to
visit Iraqi Kurdistan twice a year. It’s the
opportunity to renew family ties and make a profit
from the trip.
Today, it is estimated that just 10% of trade
volumes between the two Kurdistans is official. The
submerged part of the iceberg, smuggling, is vital
to prevent the economic asphyxiation of Iranian
Kurdistan. “All the bananas that you see here on the
shelves of our shops come from Iraq”, explains Said,
who is evidently proud to have identified a good
example.
“Above all else, we are in contact with the Iraqi
Kurds because they are so close to us geographically
speaking and because of the pressure exerted on our
people by the Turkish government. It’s more
difficult to get to Turkish Kurdistan than to Iraq.
The reason is obvious: in Iraq, there is a Kurdish
regional government that is more favourable to the
free movement of people and goods.”
However, links do exist between the Iranian and
Turkish Kurdistan. Following the example of
localised, but recognised, smuggling, creams, hair
colours and other cosmetics arrive in Iranian
Kurdistan from Turkey.
Crossing the checkpoints to reach Mahabad, around
50km from the Iraqi border, is more risky. The
system of bribes is ever-present. But smugglers
prefer to cross at night, as it is evidently easier.
And what of exports of products from Iranian
Kurdistan to Kurdish Iraq? “Just look around you.
What do we have to export?”, concludes Said.
“Nothing.”
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